Despite rust in the tank, and a sub-par paint job, the tank on my bike is in good shape. No dents, no holes, cracks or thin spots (best I could tell). After doing some looking, I decided that getting the rust out and resealing the interior would be the most cost effective, and best option. I will worry about the paint later.
The POR-15 Motorcycle Fuel Tank Repair Kit received the best reviews of any of the similar products that I looked at, and thus was my choice. I received the item a few days after ordering it, and was dismayed to see that the new seal would take 4 days to properly set.
I was concerned about finding an acceptable 4 days to be without my bike, however, the absence of a fuel hose (see previous post) gave me the perfect opportunity, and on a sunny Sunday morning I gathered my stuff and got ready to clean, shake, scrub and seal.
The process is 3 steps, and the instructions were decent. The first is an alkali cleaner, designed to clean out any loose rust and other particles. The second step is an acid, that eats away a layer of your tank and gets out the rust that has settled in. The third step is coating the interior of the tank with a new layer of permanent, anti rust, anti gas goodness.
Step 1&2 – The cleaner and de-ruster.
These were not so difficult. You mix the cleaner (Marine Clean) at a 1:1 ratio with warm water and shake, rattle and roll the crap out of your tank. I sealed the fuel lines leading out of the tank with duct tape, and also covered the main gas hole with duct tape (Note: If you want to preserve your paint job, you may explore other options for covering your gas cap hole. See tip at the end of this post). I mixed the cleaner and water in a large jug with a spout to help pour it. A very interesting and efficient addition to this process that I discovered browsing various forums, is to toss a hand full of old screws, nuts and bolts into your tank during this step. These items will help break rust away from your tank, and increase the effeciency of the process. WARNING – Before you add any foreign objects into your tank, make sure you can get them out. I luckily had the presence of mind to do this, and discovered that it was impossible to get the last little bit of liquid out of my tank due to raised lips around every hole in the tank (gah….engineers!). Had I thrown screws and nuts into my tank, they would still be there right now. I would also suggest having a chair nearby, as shaking a gas tank full of liquid for the recommended 20 minutes gets rather tiring. Once your done, empty the cleaner, rinse out with a hose and get as much of the water out as possible (Note: as my gas tank is a pain in the ass to drain, there was a minute puddle still in the bottom after this stage. It didnt effect the de-ruster process in the least. The derusting process is pretty similar, just after shaking you let the tank sit in different positions for 20 minutes at a time.
Step 3: Re-sealing/cremeing
Getting the tank dry was time consuming, although not difficult. I used a hair dryer, and it took about 30 minutes. Since I had a standing puddle of water that no amount of shaking, rolling or tiliting would get out, I found that rolling the tank around to get the water spread out inside the tank sped up the drying process immensly. Once I’d coated the inside, I drained as much excess as possible. I also ran some wire up through my hoses to make sure nothing had gunked them up. 4 days later, got the new hose, and put her back together.
Final tip:
I got some advice from a friend of mine after I completed the task. He was going through the same process, and said that he got some expansion plugs from a local tractor store that he slid into the openings on his tank. The theory is that it will let you slosh the stuff around inside the tank without it spilling out, and will not damage your paint. I wish I had thought of this, but if you’re going through this process, I would suggest trying it as they are only a few bucks a pop.
So four days later the tank was dry, the fuel hose was on…….and sadly she wouldn’t start. More on that to come.











